The folk artisan re-weaves away the shalo

For over a decade, traditional artisans from Suzhou have been working tirelessly to rediscover the ancient technique of Luo weaving, which had nearly vanished in the world of silk satin. Their efforts paid off, and the newly revived Luo silk scarves have now become official gifts for major international events, including the Beijing Olympics, the Shanghai World Expo, and are set to be presented at the upcoming Guangzhou Asian Games.

One of the key figures behind this revival is Li Hailong, a passionate artisan who has dedicated his life to bringing back this lost art. While visiting his workshop, the author witnessed several skilled female weavers busily working on a batch of “fabric” using a special loom. This fabric is none other than the legendary Luo silk satin. Once completed, these pieces will be sent to the Guangzhou Asian Games and, after passing strict quality checks, will be presented as gifts to foreign dignitaries.

Li Hailong explains that silk has long been associated with luxury, and Luo fabric, in particular, holds a special place in China’s textile history. Known for its lightness, thinness, and breathability, it was once described by ancient poets as “so fine it seems to vanish in the air,” and “like a glimpse of jade skin.” The fabric is not only elegant but also highly functional—cool, non-sticky, and full of depth. However, with the arrival of Western industrialization in the late Qing Dynasty, the complex and time-consuming process of making Luo fabric led to its decline, and the ancient craft gradually disappeared from mainstream production.

Driven by a deep passion for textiles, Li Hailong began his journey in 1994, traveling across museums, rural villages, and research institutions to study the lost techniques. He even traveled abroad to learn from experts and faced numerous failures along the way. After more than ten years of relentless effort, he finally mastered the traditional Luo weaving method and successfully developed the “Rayra machine and its kneading process,” enabling modern production of this ancient fabric. His innovation earned him a national technology invention patent from the State Intellectual Property Office.

Since its introduction, Li Hailong’s Luo silk scarves have gained widespread popularity. The 26th World University Games next year has also chosen Suzhou Hua Luo as an official gift, marking a new chapter in the revival of this precious heritage.