Sun Ruizhe: Unbounded Innovation, Creating a "New Time and Space View" for the Development of the Apparel Industry

“With the title of “Unbounded: Space and Logic of Innovation”, the apparel industry will open a journey of time and space on innovation, a journey of philosophy and aesthetics related to industrial development.” At the 2018 China Fashion Forum, China’s textile industry Sun Ruizhe, president of the Federation and president of the China Garment Association, said in his speech that China's development has entered a new orientation, and the development of China's garment industry is also facing a new development of time and space and realizing new value re-engineering.

General Secretary Xi Jinping pointed out: "The Chinese nation, which has been suffering since the modern times, has achieved a historic leap from standing up to becoming rich and strong." The five years since the party’s 18th National Congress was five years since China’s “rich” to “strong”. It is this historic leap that has calibrated the new historical position of China today.

Sun Ruizhe believes that with the "standing up", the Chinese textile industry has gained "ambition". "Get rich" will give the Chinese textile industry a "foundy". The "strong", very important manifestation is that China's textile industry continues to renew its "vigor" and become an industry with both internal and external repairs, with value, intelligence, vitality and vitality.

Therefore, Sun Ruizhe said: The development of the apparel industry in the new era will gradually advance and continue to deepen the three processes of “redefinition”, “rebalancing” and “re-innovation”.

1. "Redefinition" breaks the impression of the industry and strengthens the new positioning of the industry

"The new historical stage of development, undergoing continuous restructuring and upgrading of China's textile and garment industry is bound to usher in industry positioning 'redefinition'." Sun Rui Zhe, said: have 19 National Congress Party as a symbol, China's textile industry is entering a new stage of development of high quality, past labor-intensive traditional industries locking impression is being broken, high-quality high-performance fibers, textiles, high-end smart manufacturing as the representative of the technology industry, clothing brands, textile brand as the representative of the fashion industry, manufacturing industry through the green the whole industry chain, is becoming a new social cognition, "science and technology, fashion, green" is becoming China's textile and garment industry New positioning and new labels for the industry.

In his view, in the past 40 years of reform and opening up, the industrial positioning and industrial attributes of China's textile and garment industry “scientific, fashionable, and green” have gradually become clear. From the three levels of “ scientific and technological innovation ”, “fashion consumption upgrade” and “green sustainable development”, he listed a detailed set of data. This group of data shows that the Chinese textile and garment industry is “changing with each passing day” in vertical historical comparison. The development of genetic mutations.

Sun Ruizhe said:

First of all, technological innovation has helped the industry “from big to strong”.

In 2015, the labor productivity of the textile industry (in terms of total industrial output value) reached 736,000 yuan/person, 41.4 times that of 1978. Textile industry chain can be achieved using its own technology, self-developed design and equipment production of quality products, which is rare in the Chinese manufacturing industry;

Since the "Twelfth Five-Year Plan", a batch of fiber independent technologies such as carbon fiber and aramid have broken foreign monopoly and made major breakthroughs. They have entered the stage of industrialization, and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene and other varieties have entered the international market;

Now, Chinese textile fabrics overall self-sufficiency rate of over 95%, exports of fabric self-sufficiency rate increased significantly, garment exports in general trade rose from 35.7% in 1996 to 89.3% in 2017;

Industrial textiles are widely used in medical and health, filtration, geotechnical construction, safety protection, structural reinforcement and other fields, and make positive contributions to the development of the relevant fields of the national economy. In 2016, the output reached 14.503 million tons, which is 85 times that of 1980;

At present, the garment industry is to highlight fashion intelligent manufacturing industry vitality, create new business models to create new consumer value, intelligent equipment, intelligent production, intelligent management, intelligent products is becoming a new source of momentum in the apparel industry.

Secondly, the upgrade of fashion consumption has given birth to the fashion power of the supply side.

In 1978, China's per capita fiber consumption was only 2.9 kilograms, which is 38% of the world average. In 2008, China's per capita fiber consumption exceeded 15 kg, and in 2015 it exceeded 20 kg. The quantity and structure of fiber consumption gradually approached the level of moderately developed countries. In 2016, the per capita clothing consumption expenditure of urban and rural residents in China reached 1739 and 575.4 yuan, an increase of 16.7 times and 17.4 times respectively compared with 1985.

After years of development, China has emerged as the world's largest middle-income group with a large population, forming a huge domestic market. The open market of this 400 million people and fast-growing middle-income groups will make a significant contribution to global development.

At the same time, "the people's growing needs for a better life" has become the core driving force for the high-quality development of the industry. The connotation of residents' consumption is becoming more and more abundant, and the consumption structure is more diversified. The advancement of new urbanization and the growth of residents' income have made China the largest middle-income group in the world. With the continuous deepening of consumption upgrades, the demand of the industry has changed from the satisfaction of weight-improving to the pursuit of quality improvement, from the focus on tangible products to the attention to service experience, from imitative-type consumption to personalized consumption, and flaunting. A series of characteristics, such as the shift from consumption to investment-oriented consumption, are the prominent features of fashion consumption, and they are constantly urging the fashion changes on the supply side of the production industry.

Third, green sustainable development and promote the construction of ecological civilization.

Since the reform and opening up, the textile and garment industry has always attached importance to technological innovation and efforts to reduce consumption and increase efficiency. "1025" period, "strengthening energy conservation and recycling of resources" has become the industry five years of planning and development tasks, rapid low temperature pre-treatment, cold pad batch dyeing, printing and dyeing wastewater treatment and other large flux of membrane technology has made a large number of clean production of key Break through and realize industrial application;

From 2006 to 2015, the comprehensive energy consumption of the textile industry decreased by 44%, and the water consumption per unit of printing and dyeing products decreased from 4 tons/100 meters to 1.8 tons/100 meters, and the water reuse rate increased from 7% to over 30%.

2. "Rebalancing" focuses on solving development contradictions and accelerating the realization of high quality development

Sun Rui Zhe, said: From a macroeconomic perspective, some scholars have suggested that China's macro-economic performance in 2018 will enter the "industry profits rebound wheeled period, effectively adjust supply and demand critical period, financial entities docking adaptation period" of the "new three superimposed" stage . In 2018, China's macroeconomic policy should focus on rebalancing supply and demand, absorb the results of structural reforms in the early stage of supply-side supply, accelerate the implementation of incremental supply-side structural reforms, and achieve government power and market functions, total supply and totals in economic operations. Three “rebalancing” of demand, financial resources and the real economy.

Correspondingly, he said that from the perspective of industry development, it should also focus on the development of contradictions and accelerate the realization of three “rebalancing” around the goal of high-quality development:

First, the rebalancing of the supply and demand structure. Change the homogenization tendency of staged, structural overcapacity and product supply, dislocation around supply and demand, solve the problem of large scale and insufficient supply, strong manufacturing capacity and insufficient innovation ability, and realize the rebalancing of supply and demand structure.

Second, the rebalancing of regional development. There is a mismatch between changing the distribution of resource elements, the change of competitive advantage and the industrial regional pattern formed by years of development, achieving the overall development pattern of regional balance and coordination, planning the comparative advantages of regional development, and improving the efficient flow and industry between different regions. Chain complementary integrated innovation.

Third, the rebalancing of industrial returns. Change the mismatch between industry profitability and economic contribution. Compared with other industries, the wage income of textile workers has been at a low level; in the capital market, the return on assets of textiles, clothing and chemical fiber is also in a low state. In the next stage, efforts should be made to improve the fair position of the industry in the distribution of social profits, so that high-quality resources can be effectively gathered in the industry, creating the necessary conditions for transformation and upgrading and long-term development.

3. “Re-innovation”, unbounded innovation, new time and space view under the boundary extension

"Fashion is the 'new new eternal rebirth'." - Sun Ruizhe quoted the famous quote of the philosopher Walter Benjamin in his speech. He believes that innovation, for the Chinese clothing industry to strengthen the "fashion" of the industrial attributes, can be said to have become a permanent "standard." Back to the theme of this forum: "Unbounded: Space and Logic of Innovation", "Unbounded" will provide more innovations for China's textile and garment industry to break through its industrial boundaries, realize value extension, and enhance space and time. Development opportunities.

From the four aspects of market demand, technology driving, retailing, and cultural mobility, he deeply interprets and breaks the space and logic of unbounded innovation:

First, the demand for the market is showing “unbounded” and the value boundary is more wide.

Sun Ruizhe believes that under the demand-driven and lifestyle split of “unbounded”, brand enterprises have begun to accelerate cross-border operations, and the boundaries and spaces of innovation have gained unimaginable internal tension.

Sun Ruizhe takes Uniqlo as an example. The founder of Uniqlo, Liu Jingzheng, once denied that he was “fast fashion” for a long time. In the definition of Yanai Zheng, “Uniqlo is a technology company, and the only competitor is Apple, not GAP. So in its product brochures and advertisements, the most words appearing are new technologies related to fabrics. Now, it is no longer Emphasizing “technical companies”, but defining itself as “lifestyle company.” This repositioning has opened UNIQLO’s innovative experiment on the UT product line and has collaborated with the New York Museum of Modern Art MoMA to print the art in dozens. T-shirt on the money;

In the name of lifestyle, clothing brand Jiangnan Cloth began to launch home line, Chanel and Cucci opened coffee shops and restaurants; light luxury brands Coach and KateSpade began to get rid of the business model of the main bag; jeweler Bulgari began to open the hotel, Promote the Italian way of life. Avoiding a single categorized identity attribute enables the brand to effectively expand its own value boundaries. On the highways that achieve high premium capabilities, to expand the value boundary and achieve the integration of internal innovation elements and brand reputation, it creates a greater "Bandwidth".

Second, the drive of technology is showing “unbounded” and platform empowerment is more efficient.

Sun Ruizhe believes that technological innovation has become a necessary condition and infrastructure for driving “unbounded innovation”. Accompanied by lifestyle changes is the “intelligence and melting” and “smart ecology” of production methods.

Sun Rui Zhe, said: information technology, intelligent manufacturing, new energy and new materials, represented by the coming of the new era of technology innovation wave of unprecedented historical opportunity to upgrade traditional garment industry, but also opened up unprecedented technological innovation The era of "unbounded" under the integration. Digitalization, networking, intelligence, and service are highly empowered for the garment manufacturing industry, making the entire industry chain more flexible, intelligent, agile, and efficient. The platform strategy of “Industry + Internet” is formed, based on the Internet and big data. Various business models, service models, management models, and supply chain, logistics chain and other innovations are also accelerating the realization of "unbounded" integration. For example, Ruyi Group adopts intelligent, personalized and green clothing production lines to create a complete set of “smart factory IT information and data integration platform”; “C2M business model” of “Internet + industry” created by Red Collar Group It will combine large-scale, flexible, rapid response and cost control to provide personalized customized products to the market and explore the methodology of the Internet industry.

Third, the retail approach is showing “unbounded” and the channel model is more complex.

Sun Ruizhe believes that the future retail scene will subvert the traditional concept of retail time and space, and a single retail scene will become a composite time and space of “every time, nowhere, everywhere”, truly become a consumer, high-density, embedded a form of invisibility.

Sun Ruizhe said: In recent years, the clothing retail channel has shown a clear trend of “decentralization”. The original “brick + cement” physical store era has evolved into an all-channel marketing of “brick + mouse + mobile network”. era. The arrival of Omni-Channel retailing means that companies can sell goods or services by integrating physical channels, e-commerce channels and mobile e-commerce channels in order to meet the needs of consumers whenever, wherever, and in any way. , providing customers with an indiscriminate buying experience. Modern IT technology has enabled brands to achieve real-time and location based targeting, which also indicates that the stick between the brand and the consumer will become “all the time.” , everywhere, all-in-one." The combination of retail and content, the combination of entertainment, and the combination of virtual reality, and all the carriers that have identity and transaction attributes in the data world, have unlimited business possibilities for instant links.

For example, Sun Ruizhe: For example, the Danish clothing brand JACK & JONES opened the first offline experience store in Chengdu. This latest experience store is the first offline immersive experience store created by JACK & JONES and audio brand Bang & Olufsen (B&O) to target young people's needs for “technology” and “experience”. In addition to the new cross-border audiovisual zone, the highlight of the entire concept store is the dedicated denim laser zone. The domestic clothing brand Red Bean began to launch unmanned retail stores.

“As a fashion brand operator, how to embrace this unbounded retail revolution, enabling online and offline sharing of traffic, seamless switching of scenarios, and the ability to adjust channel structures to avoid channel conflicts, requiring us to build more complex The omnichannel channel with rationality." Sun Ruizhe added.

Fourth, the flow of culture is showing “unbounded” and the creative path is more diverse.

Sun Ruizhe believes that “unbounded” accelerates the flow of cultural elements in different fields and promotes the rapid matching and effective combination of different ideas, enabling the industry to achieve a rich nourishment and ample premium through the cross-border integration of art in different fields.

He said: Unbounded design is similar to the "sense" of forging cross-border. Writer Oscar Wilde said: "People either become a work of art or put on a work of art." The evolutionary curve of fashion, which used to be an alternative logic, now evolves into complementary logic. Literature, architecture, film, painting, sculpture... art in different fields, as well as the integration of traditional Chinese culture, intangible cultural heritage and contemporary fashion art, will add valuable energy and create diversity for the “unbounded” innovation of the garment industry. The development path helps us usher in an era of spiritual aristocracy with an aesthetic taste.

Sun Ruizhe also stressed: It is worth adding that behind the "unbounded", there are still innovative logic and realistic rules of "bounded". Social responsibility, inclusive growth and practice of sustainable development and building a green supply chain, intellectual property and consumer privacy protection, product liability and consumer advocacy responsibility, innovation should be the behavior to achieve " In the process of integration of unbounded, the fundamental logic and the rules of reality are strictly followed.

At the end of the speech, Sun Ruizhe once again quoted General Secretary Xi Jinping as saying: "The times are the people who roll out, we are the respondents, and the people are the reviewers." He pointed out: What we are facing is a great era full of infinite possibilities and new species. At the same time, this era has also given many challenges to the industry, many of the ultimate questions.

In his view, for an industry with a special fashion attribute such as the Chinese clothing industry, it is necessary to learn to use the professional skills to "solve the problem", but also to learn to use the artistic feelings to solve the "style." The only criterion for measuring whether this style is "fashionable" is still in the hands of the consumers in the industry. They are the ultimate examiners of this fashion test, satisfying their new expectations for a better life, will be our generation. The significance of the survival and life of textile and clothing people is also the fundamental and initial heart of the logic of all innovative behaviors.

"The beginning of the heart is unchanged, innovation is unbounded." Sun Ruizhe hopes that through the joint efforts of every industry person, the clothing industry can truly become a leafy ark with people's full of achievements and poetic inhabitation.